RSV SWING ARM

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kev
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RSV SWING ARM

Post by kev »

it arrived today i dont think its going to be as easy as i first thought still i am sure when carnivore finishes the translation all will become clear
craigus
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Post by craigus »

good luck with the coversion, ive had a custom subframe made and fitted ready for my new rear seat and plastics to be fitted i`ll post some pics when done
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carnivore
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Post by carnivore »

RSV Swing arm conversion for Raptor

To start with all necessary parts must be purchased these include
• Swingarm (the one used in the Italian zip file is off a 2004 model)
• Rear axle (the RSV rear wheel axle is the same diameter as the raptor one, but the raptor axle is 17mm longer than the RSV item and will require turning to length).
• Rear calliper mounting bracket
• Chain tensioning blocks
• Chain guides
• New chain
• New swing arm bearings

Not sure if the standard raptor swingarm pivot is used or not as the translation isn’t clear but I’d get the RSV pivot just in case.
2 lots of bushes are required also, one to help line up the rear wheel properly with the chain and the other for helping the suspension pivots line up.
Bear in mind these sizes are only a guide, your’s may be different.

Wheel bushes: - 25.5mm internal Ø x 40mm external Ø. Lengths will depend on chain alignment.

Suspension bushes: - 2 off 6mm thick, 10mm internal Ø and 25mm external Ø
1 off 8mm thick 10mm internal Ø and 25mm external Ø

Additional bushes may be required to space out the foot peg hangers and exhausts but you will only find that out when the swinger is fitted.

The width of the RSV arm is more than the raptor’s so it will need machining down to get it into the frame, measure yours first before proceeding!!! The bearings will need banging out as they will get filled with grit and sworf. The best way of machining the swing arm width to size is probably with a file and set square.
The roller bearing size (the left) requires 5mm machining off and the ball bearing side (the right) requires 2mm machining off.
The bush on the (top hat bush on roller bearing side) right side will requires shortening by 7mm.

You can grind off the Aprilia embossed logo in the casting if you want with a dremel.

The tunnel in the swing arm where the shock and exhaust may needs opening out a little as the original shock is wider on the raptor but if yours is below 70mmØ you can skip this. You will need to use a sand paper flapper wheel to do this.
Warning :- the alloy isn’t that thick so don’t over do it!

The swing arm now needs new bearing putting back in and hopefully will be ready to fit. Take out the old swing arm ( you’re gonna need a 22 and 14 mm allen key to achieve this) and put in the RSV arm. Sort out the chain alignment and then the suspension pivots can also be measured and fitted with bushes etc.

If you want a copy of the original, PM me and I’ll send one out.
Last edited by carnivore 15 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
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kev
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Post by kev »

thanks for the translation mate it confirms a few things i wasn't sure of IE shortening pivot bush they forgot mine when they sent the swinger.
you can use the rap swingarm spindle
I've also made new shock linkage plates to get ride height sorted and centralise the shock to avoid grinding.
kev
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Post by kev »

craigus wrote:good luck with the coversion, ive had a custom subframe made and fitted ready for my new rear seat and plastics to be fitted i`ll post some pics when done
did you get my pm about foot plates
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twistedpr
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Post by twistedpr »

May have to remove my swingarm, and was wondering how you dealt with getting the ring nut out? The service manual talks about a "specific tool" (see pages e22 & e23), but is there something clever you can do with 22mm and 14mm allen keys :? If not, where would I get this tool from? I have swingarm removal socket attachments on ebay, but have no idea which one I would need.

Thanks.
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Two wheels move the soul.
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pod
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tool for lock ring

Post by pod »

I made a tool for the lock ring with a piece of tube the same diameter, a hacksaw and file, it needs 4 protruding tangs. Snot too tight.
Drill for a tommy bar or carve up a big socket (they are tough though)
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twistedpr
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Post by twistedpr »

Thanks pod. You don't happen to know the dimensions off-hand do you? There is some chap on ebay who makes proper socket thingies to order and I'm nowhere near the bike. I could also visit the pipe shop on the way home and have a go at making one tonight.

Cheers
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Two wheels move the soul.
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pod
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Post by pod »

Lock ring removal tool, 39mm OD, 32mm ID, In old money, inch an half OD.
I had to go out in the pishing rain for that!
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twistedpr
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Post by twistedpr »

Really appreciate you doing that mate - measuring stuff in the pishing rain is above and beyond in my book.

Sent the measurements off to the bloke who makes this things, and he asked for more info. Measured mine with some verniers (also in the rain) and sent him those details along with a picture. Turns out he needs inside leg measurements, no of previous partners and favourite colour before he can make it (must be one of those precision engineering types, rather than a finger-in-the-air mechanic). Ideally he would like to get hold of the nut himself, which is fine, but if I could get the nut off in the first place, then....

Anyway, am in the middle of making my own by introducing a 28mm socket (Draper Expert - about £4) to my Dremel. Will let you know if that works.
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TimO
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Post by TimO »

I'm getting one made up at the moment, If you can wait, I can ask if they can make up two whilst they're at it. It's at a local friendly engineers, don't generally charge too much for stuff

TimO
pod
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lock ring tool

Post by pod »

4 pegs at end of tool 90 degrees apart, 5mm wide, 4-5 mm deep.
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twistedpr
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Post by twistedpr »

TimO, I could be tempted, dependent on how much they charge. If it's under £10 then put me down for one.

Am about 3/4 way through making mine (pegs need to be deeper and are a bit too wide) - handy thing about these sockets is that they have 12 "teeth" on the inside, which makes lining up the 4 pegs at 90 degrees a lot easier.

Once the swingarm's off (do you REALLY need to remove the exhausts and the side hangers or is that just to give you a bit more room?), it's out with the old Dremel again to grind out what's left of the triangle pivot bearings and insert nice shiny new ones.

Will get round to doing the swingarm conversion one day (honest :oops: )
Four wheels move the body.
Two wheels move the soul.
------ X-Rap 188/999 ------
pod
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Post by pod »

Yup the exhaust has to come off, side plate on RHS as well .

To remove the SA spindle,
remove nut on LHS.
Slacken lock ring.
Use 14 mm allen key to unscrew spindle and threaded bush..
The spindle end is a female 14mm hex with a male large hex (22mm?)which drives against the RHS threaded bush. No need for the 22mm allen key.
Thats it.
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993ti
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Post by 993ti »

Just got this one (complete for 280 euro inc. shipping :shock: ).
It's from a 2006, do i need to machine the arm to the same width as described?
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