HiFi,
Replacing the chain and sprockets isn't science of the rocket kind, but there can be pitfalls.
First, you need to be able to take the sprockets off. As we said, an impact gun with a proper socket to suit may be vital to shift the front one. Some manufacturers used to fit rear sprockets with red Loctite on the bolt threads, and that can be very difficult to move without heat. Someone here who has done that job can advise as to whether that applies, as I've not been there on my Raptors.
Joining chain links is a job I'm always very cautious about. Not my favourite job by any means! Needs to be tight but not too tight. First you have to get your head around the bits in the chain-link tool. That usually confuses me!
You may find re-fitting the rear wheel is tricky, especially if the little supporting lug has been snapped off the top of the caliper mount. Both my 1K and 650 needed a bit of steel screwed on to replace that bit, otherwise the caliper mount drops out of sight very easily, just as you thought it was lined up.
Lining the chain up is crucial. I use a laser pointer to ensure the sprockets line up, but you can get close-ish using the marks on the swingarm ends. Some people claim the marks are way out, but I've generally found them pretty close. It doesn't guarantee the sprockets are perfectly in line but you can set the front and back wheels inline with each other, but you need to account for the different tyre widths to use a straight edge alongside the tyres.
Once you have the chain line close, make sure the chain slack is right. Too loose and the transmission will be jerky, too tight and you can kiss your gearbox bearings goodbye!
Is the above helpful, or has it put you off completely? Let's see what other opinions come in...
Nick