Raptor Chapter

shebee wrote: ↑4 years ago Hmm that is lovely

Tell me it doesn't crush the Family Jewels?

Not a problem for those of the female persuasion, of course...

Nick

Also, that i have been drooling over this all December/January.

Good lord!! My first thought was, sheesh someone's been busy in the garage over Christmas

Tis' very nice indeed & love the gold frame

Might sorn it and do it. Not sure on the gold, maybe a candy color frame & wheels..

I was hoping to get a nippy little city car but eBay ball bags are doing my bra in.

"And there's nothing wrong with the car i've got" - Significant other.

Busy few days, seeing as though snow was forecast i thought balls to it. Spent around 12 hours give or take stripping it down. Only thing left really is to get the discs off the wheels and knock some bearings out.






I was thinking candy green frame, white wheels,

satin black swingarm/footcontrols/sidestand/top & bottom yokes.

Possibly Green handlebars or black, i'll be buying renthals to replace my bent ones.

Lots of cleaning to do on the motor.

Haven't given much thought into the colour of the tank, front wheel gaurd.. i have thought about buying carbon for the rear, but i've also seen a few online that have cut the seat down so it doesn't hang over and filled the gap with sheet metal, i'll find the photos & bung it up.

Quick edit: The worst thing that happened, which isn't bad given the state of it! Rear pot ones came off a treat.

Top Man!!!

Candy green sounds lush - still not sure of white wheels mind....

Andy B

andybaggies wrote: ↑4 years ago Top Man!!!

Candy green sounds lush - still not sure of white wheels mind....

Andy B

You're only envious of the ones on my Monster S4R! I junked the Termi cans on that and put the original ones back on and it looks so much better and still sounds plenty loud enough.

Nick

I do like your white wheels Nick, after Andy's comment i started thinking it might just be a pain to clean all the time because i was using it any weather and probably still will.. So i'll probably go for an light/medium anthracite.

Also, with your single sided swinger & high pipes it makes the wheels stand out which looks good in white.

Had another few hours at it today.. Got the bolts out of the rear sprocket & carrier & the bolts out of the front discs which was a good sign.

Now for the stuck bits

Rear Disc (tried heat)
Front right fork pinch bolts
The castle nut from the swingarm pivot.

Front discs are seized onto the wheel, the bolts are out but i don't want to damage them trying to get them off.. Same for the rear sprocket even though all the bolts are out.

Here's a photo, That's a puddle of WD40. (i made a castle socket out of a 28mm i had, but it failed it was rushed.


I'll have to measure it to see if this fits.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools- ... SwCR9cpxam

Rs, seized stuff is a right royal 'kin pain. I've always used Plusgas for seized stuff and ACF 50 is surprising good with the rusted stuff. All require patience mind, application & tap, tap, tap and leave (overnight). Daily repeat until the weekend and try after heat. Repeat for the next week.

The fork pinch bolts might be require the most care cus they are essentially part of the front fork. I'm assuming you mean the axle pinch bolts? I had to drill one of mine out.

I have a castle nut socket and it's dimensions are, OD 38 mm with an ID of 30 mm with the lugs being 5 mm wide & 3 mm deep. The important dimension though is it's 'reach', say a good 15 mm.

Your sort of right about the tap tap tap andy, but it was more like "WHACK WHACK WHACK F**K**G GET OUT YOU C**T"

Anyway, blowtorch on the inside of the wheel for 3 or 4 mins per bolt helped, whacked a big Torx into it & presto.






Tried to use a gear puller to get the sprocket from the carrier, i hadnt realised it was cheap sh*t, broke the threads on it.


Anyway heated the sprocket & it came quite easily.. then i cleaned the carrier up & sprocket.




Also, got the discs off the front wheel after leaving them to soak in wd40 they came off fairly easily.


Most importantly, the castle nut.. but it is seized onto the thread,i am not sure if that matters? Can i just bung it back in as is or does it need to go on after the threaded part?


I've also made a right mess of the fork pinch bolts, easy out snapped the head off one of the bolts.. started drilling the other one, as i was getting up th drill bit size i snapped a 3.5mm bit off into the hole.

Hurrah - some progress at least. Onwards & upwards.

Most importantly, the castle nut.. but it is seized onto the thread,i am not sure if that matters? Can i just bung it back in as is or does it need to go on after the threaded part?

You can just bung it back in but you're gonna loose any ability to adjust out any play. I suppose you could, Ducati stylee, do the adjustment with shims i.e washers. But that would be a hell of a lot of faffing about, fitting, checking, filing washers, fitting, checking etc etc.

Perhaps Dremel it off - after you've sourced a replacement first ho hum. The heat/vibration might even loosen it or cut a vee and get the old mallet & cold chisel out

But have a guess what I found https://www.boonstraparts.com/en/part/c ... 0000151489

I've also made a right mess of the fork pinch bolts, easy out snapped the head off one of the bolts.. started drilling the other one, as i was getting up th drill bit size i snapped a 3.5mm bit off into the hole.

Thought these would be buggers - once the ali has corroded all is lost. Drill out & helicoil?

Eee, he was a rusty boy though. Look at those bearings.

But have a guess what I found https://www.boonstraparts.com/en/part/c ... 0000151489

How do you find this stuff andy? Do you have a catalogue of italian bik shops?

Looks in good nick that one, we will see if i can get this nut off, now its out i can get a C spanner on it.

Re that castle nut, with which I'm not familiar, I'd lay money that you could loosen it by compression hammering. Drench it in releasing fluid and then lay the axle over an anvil with the side of the nut supported and politely hit the opposite side of the nut with, say, a copper mallet, turning it as you go. The elasticity of the steel should allow the compressive force to spring it oval and break the bond with the thread. That's the theory anyway!

Nick

How do you find this stuff andy? Do you have a catalogue of italian bik shops?

I've used this place before, for a replacement oil cooler, so I know they have broken Raptors about the place. They can't be the most in demand parts & 25 euros strikes me as a bit of a bargain.

They may well have other stuff you need - worth checking I reckon.

Enjoy!

Got the castle nut off, it was drenched when I finished work last night and turn off with my badly made castle socket.. that sounds interesting Nick I'm going to Google what you said.

So... I've made a right massive balls up with my stuck pinch bolts.. Snapped drill bits, in both sides of both bolts. Just not drilling straight and pressing too hard, pfft amateur.



So here I am at the minute.. again.


Slung the swing arm back in to try the forks, as you can see in the pictures the zx10r axle is wider than the raptor one but I could sling a spacer in there to take that up.. then there is the discs. It's a different offset to the raptors and I've got no idea where to start looking.