Dizzyblonde and her numpty corner mechanicking questions

[dizzyblonde]

First off.
Fit all the gear linkage today. We have a footpeg, gear lever and everything fit back together.
However, testing the gear selections(I can't ride it anywhere yet, so stood still) it's really not smooth, and not particularly happy to push up and down the gear box. Well, not without some not very happy persuasion.
I've done a comparison on the SV, and she goes and selects every gear perfectly.
I do hope this will have a simple explanation, and we aren't going to find the damage is far worse than the cosmetics. I don't want to be breaking anything internally because there's a bit more foot needed to change the gears. I've also tried it whilst rolling. Same thing.
Help

[ozzraptor]

Hey Dizzy ,sorry about your off , was the motor running when you were changing gears ?

[dizzyblonde]

No. Neither was it on the SV, when I compared notes.

Reason being, this was the first job we did.
I've to swap indicator pods, the subframe needs the tangs where they bolt on bending slightly on the left side.
Swap radiator for a non leaky version.
Straighten or swap the handlebars, not yet got hold of new bars.
Have the tank resprayed.
There's a noticeable whiff of fuel when the pump is priming. I don't think it's usually so noticeable. I did find it doesn't prime when the sidestand is up!
I've done a bit of a roll to see if changing the gears is better on a slight move. No., not really
It goes into second fine, it's further up when they complain.

Oh, last but not least, new end cans.

[dizzyblonde]

Lughtbulb!

Could it be that, because the bars are bent towards the tank more than usual, it's made the clutch cable slack, so adjustment is out of sync for changes in gears?

Ok..silly question right!

[Spyke]

Well glad you're making progress, shame you've hit a snag. With a serious left hand drop I'd be worried that the gear arm/rod thing had gotten slightly bent, but maybe (hopefully) it's just your clutch cable needs adjusting? Maybe try taking off the sprocket cover (undo the small bolt holding the black speed sensor thingy on and then pull the thingy kerbside to release it, then undo 2-3 bolts and pull the front sprocket cover straight off kerbside as well) and have a look at what happens when you pull the clutch lever in - you should see the cable move, and a spring that pulls it back afterwards. Grab the cable and try to slide it "more" in it's usual direction of travel and see if that makes gearchanges easier - if so then you just need to fiddle about with the adjuster and locknut that determines the cable's normal range of travel. Try looking at the end of the gear arm rod from above, as you try to change gears, to see if it looks straight, if it looks like it's going off centre at all then you'll need a proper mechanic to look at it I think. Whatever you do don't try and take the clutch throw-out off without tying it up to prevent a scattering of your ball bearings (see http://www.raptorchapter.org.uk/viewtop ... =15#p31381).

[norrie]

You really need it running to check for smooth operation. Get the radiator on and get it running. Having a spin on it will tell you if everything is ok.

[shedmonkey]

have you got the linkage in the correct orientation so that the arms are pushing at 90 degrees ish? I would think it unlikely that the shaft would get hit in your ding. Sometimes when the bikes not running spin the rear wheel by hand and try again. The gears arent meant to be super smooth with nothing running.

[Spyke]

I agree that they aren't meant to be 100% smooth...but mine goes up and down the box when on the stand with no clutch, and only fairly gentle pressure on the lever, Mr Suzuki does a REALLY good job in the gearbox department

The shaft might not have hit directly, but been stressed by the pedal/linkage going down, if you've had to replace them then that's what I'd be most concerned about. But if you have to get a 2nd & official opinion, make sure that you've bought all the other bits already, so that you've gone too far to back out now in the insurance company's eyes.

[dizzyblonde]

Sorry Ive not replied to you folks, I went away for a week in Cyprus to meet the family and go to a friends wedding.

After getting rid of the mountain of holiday washing, I shall revisit the Raptor work.

[dizzyblonde]

Hurrah, I have bought some OEM bars


For reference

Monubrio VRaptor 650/1000 Xtra bars part number 800095584.

[OkBails]

Hey Dizz, did you find a left indicator pod?
I have both of mine left over from the cafe build. The left one is pristine, the right has a split from the drop. They are silver. Both orange lenses are intact and crack free. I also have the plastic headlight undercover (black) and the centre subframe cover (silver) and the headlight.
If you don't need them I'll advertise them on here first, then eBay.

I know it's a long shot but is your exhaust system Staintune? I have a mint LHS like brand new.

[dizzyblonde]

Hi, I did get two pristine pods from another kind member
Mine aren't stain tunes. Leo race oval aly SBKs.

The front tabs holding the pods on the subframe are slightly bent, a bit of bending should right them.
Been way too busy dealing with some family stuff and the house since being away in October. Really got to get my fingers out, but it's snowing now and ya can't really do repairs outside!

[ozzraptor]

Hi, I did get two pristine pods from another kind member
Mine aren't stain tunes. Leo race oval aly SBKs.

The front tabs holding the pods on the subframe are slightly bent, a bit of bending should right them.
Been way too busy dealing with some family stuff and the house since being away in October. Really got to get my fingers out, but it's snowing now and ya can't really do repairs outside!

Hi Dizzy , i see some of the aftermarket slipon pipes like my gpr did not originally come with those connecting brackets , i remember on one of my last bikes the rear header pipe slipping downward because those brackets were never included from the manufacturer. Anyway since i modded up my own i added some because it makes everything a bit more rigid .

[JimBo]

Hi Dizzy. Did you get the gear change sorted? I had a similar issue on my second (current) Rap compared to my first.

My friendly mobile mechanic noticed a very slight oil leak from around the rod and at first thought it was the seal. On taking it apart he saw the rod was slightly bent! He straightened it with a bit of heat and gentle persuasion and, hey presto, no oil leak and smooth change again .

[dizzyblonde]

Nope. Literally got the gear lever and such attached, replaced the indicator pod and found the sub tabs bent, and then we went abroad that week. We've been dealing with family matters abroad since, amongst house viewings, kids, illnesses .......

AND its been too cold and wet to work outside. The other half hasn't been so good with the leg scaffolding, so its basically getting done all at once when the better weather arrives. I've pretty much got all the parts I need now so a day of a job should suffice.

There hasn't been any leak as far as I can see, my shed floor would notice too. I'll have a look under the bike to see if there are any tell tale drippy wet bits in that area and take it from there if I see anything. I'm still under the hope that because the bars bent on the clutch cable side, and my chains as tight as a ducks wotsit, when both are put back right, some magic might work

Fear not folks, I have a cunning plan and by MOT time all will be well with the Kitty Kat.