FRONT FORK SWAP ?

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taz
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FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by taz »

I have seen a few Raptors with different forks, I believe they are usually R1 forks so
1:which model R1 forks will fit the raptor
2: are they difficult to fit ? is there any moddification needed to fit them ?
3: will they marry up to the raptor front wheel and disc ?
this is a future modd I would like to make so any help and advice now will save in the long run
plus I know where I can lay my mitts on a set Of R1 forks cheap, if they are the right model/year

thanks everyone
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snapdragon
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by snapdragon »

This thread

http://www.raptorchapter.org.uk/viewtop ... t=R1+forks

should give you some info taz
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Makatak
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by Makatak »

On this one,
What should one be paying for a decent set of R1 forks, years 99/00 right?
Also, an I right to think this is best as an ebay or breakers - job so expect a few scratches/scrapes, cant get this model folk new(isn)?
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by Makatak »

Oh, and I came across this, http://www.kunstverglasungen.de/Raptor/ ... eutsch.htm
may help.
Afraid my German aint too good tho!
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Spyke
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by Spyke »

Makatak wrote:55 years agoOh, and I came across this, http://www.kunstverglasungen.de/Raptor/ ... eutsch.htm
may help.
Afraid my German aint too good tho!
Google chrome tells me that says -
Built RSV mille swingarm Raptor (Project)



Describes the installation of an RSV swingarm (to 2004 model) into a Cagiva Raptor 650, with a 1000 Raptor, the procedure is identical.
Here is the technical drawing of the strut and the lever for download:
Meanwhile, I have corrected some errors in the original pattern, inserted additional documents and made their own notes.


The whole thing should look like after completion, a bit like in the right picture. The rocker should also be more stable than the original Raptor.



Starting with the procurement of the necessary parts:





Requires the following original parts of the RSV Swing arm:
- Link (up to and including the 2004 model) with all bearings (accident-free)
- Studs (you can use reduced trimmed by about 17mm and the screw thread and the original is identical except that the raptor has a key length of 28mm, while the RSV has a key length of 32mm..
- Chain Guards (2 piece top / bottom)
- Brake anchor plate
- Chain guard
- Possibly new chain or 1 chain lock (for Raptor 525 Raptor 650 and 530 for 1000)
- Depending on the condition of the RSV swingarm bearings



The swing bolt of the RSV is not required. The pivot bolt of the Raptor fits perfectly after removal of the marked area.





Need to be Done:
3 sockets to compensate for the differences of the shock:
- 2 pieces (6 mm, inner diameter 10mm , outer diameter 25mm and lever shock absorbers)
- 1 piece (8 mm, inner diameter 10mm, outer diameter 25mm for mounting to the swingarm)
2 sockets for centering the rear wheel:
- 1 piece (2mm thick, inner diameter 25.5 mm external diameter 40mm)
- 1 piece (10mm thick, inner diameter 25.5 mm external diameter 40mm)
NOTE: The extent of the outer diameter of the sockets may differ, it does not matter, because the sockets are used only for compensating the axial play



In the photo above right are some examples of prepared sockets (also have with me the 6 mm 4 mm jacks a collar for attaching to the original part, but is only a formality and then missing the 8 mm socket on the photo)

Exploded Aprilia parts (wheels, brakes, swingarm),
Raptor parts (strut, lever) :




Here are the tools you need to grind away the Aprilia lettering and increase the shock absorber housing:
- Flap disc for angle grinders (grain size of 80-100)
- various Grinding wheel for drilling machine
- Serrated for Flex (grain size of 80-100)
- Circlip Pliers
- angle grinders, drills, hammers, screwdrivers, keys, etc.

Here are a few pictures:




Since the RSV swingarm does not fit into the frame of the Raptor, it must be where the pivot bolt into leads on both sides, being cut.

These bearings are removed from the link (this is useful for the above sheet and Verbaureihenfolge able to see it). To expand you do not need a small hammer and a long screwdriver (at least 33-35 cm without handle). Around the arm not damage, we put everything on a board for disassembly. Dismantled is the first page completely, then the other. snap rings are removed with a suitable snap ring pliers. , there is an aluminum tube as a placeholder between the two sides of the bearing.

NOTE : To facilitate the development (and subsequent installation) of the bearing I have the swing arm with a heated Heißlüftgebläse to the dismantling sites.
NOTE: In my case the bearings were completely new (my arm had less than 5000 miles). I have thoroughly cleaned, greased and re-used.







At this point, you give your arm to a mill / lathe and can make the following changes:
- the side of the milling roller bearing left 5mm (see red circle on the picture)
- Milling the side of the ball bearing right 2mm
Overall, the width of the wing is reduced to 7mm. But there is still a margin of at least 2mm (originally from 5mm) and thus maintain stability.



The images of work by the router:




After milling, the rocker fits with 1-2mm play in the frame. Prior to installation, we remove even the Aprilia logo with an angle grinder with a flap wheel. Note: The disk is very hot and consumed quickly.

Overall, everything is very manageable. Below are the photos: Sanding the left of, right after



During installation of an original damper (80mm diameter) it is necessary to enlarge the space for it in the swingarm, with other dampers (77-78mm) this is not necessary.
Verschleifende to the area is identified in the lower left (in the right picture, the yellow scratch of the spring are to see):



In addition I have a drill with a grinding stone and flap wheels used. How much you need to remove exactly I can not say because it is not over the whole area is much the same. A couple of millimeters but should already be removed.

CAUTION : Not too much wear away at the bottom especially since the aluminum is not very thick there, now you have the opportunity RSV swingarm visually edit (especially on the right side) to achieve an aesthetic result (grind , polishing, painting).

Now the rocker is almost ready to be reinstalled. . Installed the bearings with a piece of soft metal such as brass or aluminum with smooth strokes to the edge of the bearing is started with the right side with ball bearings: Remove the remote O-ring (or a new one) and the bearing and mount it. If the snap ring does not fit anymore, this is not tragic, since the bearings sufficiently firmly seated in the rocker and held with the centering pieces of the rocker. Now we repeat everything on the left side with the roller bearing. I the remaining opening is sealed with an appropriate 0-ring. The inserting of the cans you pay attention to the location of the 0-rings to avoid damaging them. Now plug the jack into the roller bearing. Left an image without 0-rings and right with 0-ring (like I did).


Now the chain guide is still mounted. So that the rocker is fully assembled for installation.


NOTE : Before beginning to disassemble everything for the installation of the new wing, it is very convenient to search for a point on the frame (interface or the like) and to take the measure of the rear wheel to control the exact installation can.


Before you begin to assemble the swing arm, it is of course necessary to disassemble everything (exhaust, forward controls, brake, wheel, etc.).
For convenience and freedom to build I have all the neighboring parts and the seat removed. The bike should be raised sufficiently to now expand the rear (27mm and one 28mm 1 x wrench size) Before disassembling the swingarm, the chain should be open also facilitates remove the chain from the sprocket. now is the actual development of wing: the two remove locks the fork pin, unscrew the screw and the screw diagonally opposite and remove the exhaust manifold, the mother of the left vehicle side Unscrew pull out, solve with a punch the nut, loosen with a 21 mm hexagon wrench, remove the jack, fork the fork pin out Remove the chassis (read Workshop Manual Chapter E22).
Ensure the expansion of chain and shock absorber to prevent damage.




Next, the installation of the RSV swingarm's turn : Put in the frame (! pay attention to the sleeve of the roller bearing), the rocker, remove the pivot bolt and tighten the nut until the rocker is play and still easy to move . Under certain circumstances, the centering of the fork must be corrected with a disk. It is also possible the framework to reduce the play with the pivot bolt some "contract" by mounting it without swingarm.

Note: At the end with a center punch secure the mother's position.


Mounted the swingarm pivot takes the rear wheel, remove the rocker and then sets the bush of 2mm. At this point, thread support pliers, then the wheel, and finally recovers the bush of 10mm and ends moving the pivot point in the other side of the swingarm. screws you tighten the nut without the PIN wheel to the wheel record. argue Insert the chain into the swing arm and pinion to stopper through the net (I have a hammer and an anvil from 500gr), then locks the crown.

NOTE: probably the circle of 1000 is only a few millimeters wider than the 650, and probably not even serve the 2mm jack on the right side. leveraggio We the (original): your a bush of 6mm on the right side of the attack, a Another bush on the right side of biel letta last 8mm bush on the left side of attack and swing the assembly of triangles (better understand the arrangement of the bushes just in the photo below left):




Most is done, you now get from the bike through the elevator and set the chain to the correct tension, after which check that the chain is fully in line (on the swingarm grain pivot) and screw the pivot greenhouse swingarm. When everything is aligned the mount paracatena and continue. At this point the wing is fully assembled, only until the end of assembly all dismantled parts in the beginning.

Note: For the 650, it is necessary to assemble the speed sensor, but fortunately the original mount perfectly on the support of RSV (mounting the same sensor) and then there are problems. obviously do not need the 1000.


This is the result (in part):






Now everything should be completed. I have written this guide only for my personal use and assume no liability for errors in imitation and possible damage. For more information or guidance you can contact me marco_mcn@tiscali.it contact
Regards
MCN

provided by Günni, translated from the Italian by ulu
And a Heißlüftgebläse appears to be a heat gun - not sure about Verschleifende though, good luck!
Road racing's where it's at - going round in circles all day is for hamsters.
taz
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by taz »

hmmmm thanks but wrong post
this is about front forks not swinging arms :shock:
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Spyke
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by Spyke »

Ah yes, was paying attention, not!

Have you tried the magic magnifying glass, up on the top right of every forum page?
I put in "R1 forks" and got 33 pages of results, CBF reading them for you though! :yawn:
Road racing's where it's at - going round in circles all day is for hamsters.
taz
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by taz »

sarcasm is still the lowest form of wit :happyhappy:
"Trained Sniper,
There's No Point Running, You'll Just Die Tired
"
taz
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Re: FRONT FORK SWAP ?

Post by taz »

yes I did and yes 30 odd pages came up, many had nothing to do with what I asked
some had a few words about it and a couple gave some info
but not the questions I asked
mr grumpy, taking a big and expensive job on is allways best when you know
as much as possible
thanks
"Trained Sniper,
There's No Point Running, You'll Just Die Tired
"
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