The hydraulic clutch conversion

General spannery stuff
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Jayjayridge
On the Road
Posts: 52
Joined: 10 years ago

The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

ok so thats the hydraulic clutch conversion done so i thought i would do a quick how to for anyone considering this. i am not saying mine is the only way of doing it or the best way but thought it might help others consideting it.

ok so shopping list as bought by me

1x zx7r clutch master cylinder(chosen because of price and because it looks similar to raptor one. can even use raptor mirror perch

1x tl1000r clutch slave cylinder with pushrod

1x m6 high tensile caphead bolt 60mm
1x m6 high tensile caphead bolt 70mm

1mtr goodridge 600 series -3(dash3) braided hose

1x 45 degree 10mm extended neck 600 series banjo
1x straight 10mm extended neck 600 series banjo

2x m10 x1.25 single banjo bolts

1x100ml syringe(all will become clear, it didnt push me to drugs just yet)
Jayjayridge
On the Road
Posts: 52
Joined: 10 years ago

Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

start by removing clutch lever. my clutch cable had snapped so this was easy.

the new lever will fit straight on and use the raptor mirror perch if you intend to have mirrors.

mine came with this shorty lever. its nice but i dont like the gold colour
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Jayjayridge
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Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

next undo the allen bolt that holds the speed sensor onto the sprocket cover. its the little black thing that is held with one allen bolt.

tuck the sensor up out of the way on the frame and screw the allen bolt back into the sprocket cover so you dont lose it(yes you will)

then take out the 3(i think) bolts and remove the sprocket cover.
Jayjayridge
On the Road
Posts: 52
Joined: 10 years ago

Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

pull the cable back down through the frame and disconnect it from the clutch arm clevis.......all dead simple and in the workshop manual.

next undo the two bolts that hold the clutch pushrod pushy thing lol in place and gently pull out the pushrod.


all this can be recycled......EXCEPT for the ali tube that the top bolt go through.

the tube may well be stuck with crud to your bike or the clutch mech but does come off and is needed.

next spend a bit of time cleaning the crud from around the sprocket area where the new slave cylinder is gonna go. i put the new pushrod in its hole to prevent any bits from damaging the seal.
ozzraptor
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Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by ozzraptor »

Good writeup . Its funny how people with hydraulic clutches want cable and vice versa . Personally i prefer cable , but that may change when the cable goes touch wood!
Jayjayridge
On the Road
Posts: 52
Joined: 10 years ago

Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

i live in a town so a hydraulic clutch is an atractive idea
Jayjayridge
On the Road
Posts: 52
Joined: 10 years ago

Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

its fairly obvious where the slave cylinder sits and it lines up using a dowel. it is a tight fit and both it and the place it fits needed crud scraping off before it would fit.

the tl1000r pushrod fits perfectly and is the right length.

use the 60mm t6 caphead for the bottom bolt

use the 70mm t6 and the ali tube you saved from earlyer for mounting the top.

you will need to cut your sprocket cover to fit around the master cylinder.

my bike is a daily driver and never gonna be a show winner so i just cut is as shown below.
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Jayjayridge
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Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

this is the piece i cut off. you could take your time and shape it more but i just need to be back on the road.
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Jayjayridge
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Posts: 52
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Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Jayjayridge »

next make up the hose. there are loads of guides to doin this online so this will be no probs.

and now ro bleed it up. be prepared to get dirty oily and to tear your hair out.


i found the easyest way to do this was to fill the 100ml syeringe with dot 4 fluid and use a tight fitting tube to inject fluid in until the res fills up then close the nipple. pump the clutch and bleed the master through the banjo bolt until no air comes out.

check and top up fluid. bleed at slave cylinder banjo. then slave nipple keeping an eye on fluid in res.

bleed the master again at the banjo and you should be good to go.
ozzraptor
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Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by ozzraptor »

Jayjayridge wrote:its fairly obvious where the slave cylinder sits and it lines up using a dowel. it is a tight fit and both it and the place it fits needed crud scraping off before it would fit.

the tl1000r pushrod fits perfectly and is the right length.

use the 60mm t6 caphead for the bottom bolt

use the 70mm t6 and the ali tube you saved from earlyer for mounting the top.

you will need to cut your sprocket cover to fit around the master cylinder.

my bike is a daily driver and never gonna be a show winner so i just cut is as shown below.
a tlr sprocket cover might work but not 100%sure on that or even an sv1000 cover
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Spyke
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Location: Down Under

Re: The hydraulic clutch conversion

Post by Spyke »

Thanks for the write-up, nicely done!
Road racing's where it's at - going round in circles all day is for hamsters.
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