650 Gearbox - Neutral selection problems

[twistedpr]

I bought a new 650ie about 6 months ago. Whilst running it in (paying strict attention to the recomended rev lmits of course, ahem!) I had issues selecting neutral once it was in gear. The foot pedal was very stiff and I would find neutral eventually, so put it down to teething troubles (mine or the bikes!)

Anyway, first service appeared to have cured it and everything was fine until recently. Now it point blank refuses to engage neutral with the engine running, and once it gets into first it won't budge when bike is stationary. Also, when going from first to second it sometimes pops back into neutral. Anyone experienced this before?

I think it's probably the clutch cable stretching, as I have to pull the lever all the way to the bar to get it to work, as demonstrated by a few stalls at traffic light getaways That being the case, how do I go about tightening it, as there are no handy adjustments on the lever?

[pod]

There are 3 different clutch adjustments.
Most important one is hardest to get to.
Remove the sprocket cover 3 screws and lift off.
Behind this is the clutch actuating arm mechanism, in the centre is a small screw locked by a locknut, before you touch this adjuster , put some slack in the cable by slackening the cable lock nuts (12mm spanners), slacken the top one and run it back to loosen the cable.
Since your bike is new the clutch will be bedding in this is why the push rod clearance changes.

Now look at the wee centre screw and lock nut.
Slacken the lock nut with a 10 mm ring spanner, a couple of turns, now back off the centre screw till it is slack, now turn the screw in gently till it just meets resistance (touches the push rod) , now back off the screw a quarter turn, hold in position and lock with the lock nut , thats the push rod clearance set.
You only need to do this every 10,000miles or so once the clutch is bedded in , unless you wheely al ot or use the clutch as a variable speed control.

Cable adjusters.
On my 650 rap there is a cable adjuster at each end, the lower with the 12 mm nuts and a handy adjuster at the lever beneath the rubber bellows where the cable leaves the lever, take up the slack a bit with the lower adjuster then fine tune at the H bar end, leave it with a tiny bit of free play before the lever takes up the tension, lock nuts and replace cover.

Alternatively since you couldnt find the H bar adjustr take it to the dealer.

Also check the gear lever pivot is lubricated, remove the centre pivot with an allen key, do not loose the shim and the 2 O rings, clean , grease and reassemble with a dab of lock tite on the screw threads so it doesnt come loose.
Avoid pressure washing, this will blow grease out of here, and your chain and your wheel bearings.
Neutral will now reappear.
Cheers
Pod

[twistedpr]

Many thanks for the detailed reply pod. Will have a go at the weekend once and if it's too much will drop it in to my new best friend of a friend, who just happens to be a bike mechanic.

Alternatively since you couldnt find the H bar adjustr take it to the dealer.

OMG, the shame Forgive the blonde having a brain haemorrhage moment - I was looking for same type of adjustment as on a brake lever. Proof if ever any was needed that 4hrs sleep every night for 2 weeks straight is really really bad for you!

Thanks again.

[pod]

It took longer to type than do,
Tools , 12 mm open ender, 10 mm ringer , small screwdriver.
and whatever undoes the sprocket cover ( I have allen screws).
print it off , 1/2 hour tops.
Follow the method above and you will be fine. Remember to lube the pedal pivot too.
If it is dry , do the brake pedal pivot as well, it will be worse, it lives behind the RHS alloy zorst foot rest plate, which needs to come off for access, if it goes tight your rear brake will suffer / overheat/ crack.
Stay Calm
Pod

[pod]

A good dealer will do this at service time, truth is there are no good dealers. If you dont do this yourself dont expect it to happen at a service.
Cheers
Pod

[twistedpr]

A very belated but heartfelt thanks pod. Less than 12 hours after your last message some kindly so and so knocked me off the bike. As I only got the rappy back a couple of weeks ago, new parts has been the priority at the moment.

Anyway, followed your instructions and now the clutch/gearbox work a treat. Thanks again.

[pod]

Sorry about your off , hope you get the bits soon, what do you need?
Cheers
Pod

[twistedpr]

Thanks pod. Luckily I don't remember a thing about it, so it hasn't put me off riding.

Posted something in the classified section as soon as I got her back
http://raptors.ukbikeforum.co.uk/viewto ... 486fc63560

Of that, I have now bought (but yet to fit) clutch lever(s!), speedo/tacho, headlamp, (old style) headlamp mounting/clock surround and a front brake fluid reservoir. Got them from a mixture of evilbay (home and abroad), Q-Racing & a couple of breakers yards. Also got some new crash bungs on the way, as one side is worn/bent

I have also fixed the near-side hanging bracket (made a plate and bolted it on behind ), front brake fluid reservoir bracket (bent it back), near side exhaust can (had road paint burned onto it) and gear change pedal (drilled a hole through old one and put a bolt through it).

So, just need
i) Speedo/tacho mounting bracket (tried gluing and it just fell apart )
ii) Front bikini fairing (optional, may just go totally naked or get an aftermarket one.)
iii) Fuel tank (probably going to get it touched up now, as scratch is minor. And/Or buy a bagster cover.)
iv) Front mudguard (may go e-moto carbon effect, as it's much cheaper than official Cagiva prices!)

Any spares or suggestions?

[pod]

e moto carbon front mud guard is good stuff ,
Ive tried various front screens, my favourite is the Puig, well made and a good shape.

I ordered some bits for my Rap in April and Im still waiting , best of luck.
Cheers
Pod

[twistedpr]

April! - wow, did you order bits from 3x?! Is your bike/you ok, or were these cosmetic alterations?

Have just been researching the screens - man, there's hundreds of them! Was thinking of getting an Airblade Bubble, but am also tempted by the Puig Raptor (is that what you've got?)

The trouble with e-moto carbon is that once you pop, you can't stop. Hugger, frame infills, seat bits - where does it end? This could be expensive!

[pod]

I ordered a clutch lever LHS Foot rest plate and stuff from DMA , they had the clutch lever in May and said they were only waiting a couple of days for the other bits?!

I dont think it was the Raptor screen I got , it was a cheapy from busters but it did very well until the bike sunk on its side stand on Tiree, fell over and bust the screen, now using a Givi which is a little skimpier but works fine , no neck strain at 85 unlike the naked .

My bike is fine, I want a spare LHS footrest mount because A) mine is reaally scabby and B ) its a critical component I dropped it before and bust the gear pedal pivot , surprisingly 3X had one in stock then and I got the spare in 2 days.
My 2001 model has the grey side plates.

Bike is going well , this years top mods were inlet cams swap from a K3 SV for another 8 ponies at the back whel and a radial front master cylinder for a better feel at the front brake. Fuel economy not affected by cam swap, just managed 172 miles to the light coming on after a gentle tour of Tiree ( mostly shopping on bumpy B roads).
Cheers
Pod