Raptor Chapter

Sounds like i've got a farting exhaust at the rear and at the moment I'm not too sure if it's coming from the join with the head or the union with the rest of the exhaust system. Either way is it possible to remove just the rear small header piece, replace the gaskets & refit without removing th...

I used R1 yokes so I could use R1 wheel, brake discs and brake calipers without any spacers or machining.

Doh! missed that point which is obvious now you have mentioned it !

When I bought R1 forks, I bought it as a kit.] That's definitely the way to do it. When I was investigating a similar project I soon realised that it's not just a case of buying the forks and slapping them on. It was all the peripheral stuff that had to be sourced which put me off. BTW why did you ...

All good things come to those who wait

I know what you mean, new front pads in the garage & new front discs en-route in some unnamed warehouse, bah! :x Although it did give me time to pop the caliper pistons out to clean & red rubber grease the seals to, hopefully, cure the sticking brake. Absolute pig to bleed the empty system s...

Correction, these discs will fit, but the ID is 64mm instead of 61mm

I'll soon be in the market for new front discs and just to clarify, does the original fitment call for an ID of 61mm?

Cheers,

Andy B

Just nipped out to the garage and although I didn't try it looks to me the bulb is mounted in a rubber 'bung' that pulls out from the back of the unit. I would have also thought the wires do have bullet connectors on them and these should be a couple of the half dozen or so tucked into the top &...

Interesting relevant thread http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/pos ... ?th=124669

Where does the switch fit exactly It's a banjo bolt pressure switch. Find the rear master cyclinder and the main output line to the caliper & you should see a couple of wires attached to the banjo bolt. Thats the pressure switch and from there you can trace the wires back to a 2 pin connect and...

So now its started, whats the voltage reading you get on the battery? ignition off/ignition on/ engine running at 3k revs? 13.1 ignition off (freshly charged), 12.4 (ish) ignition on & 14.5 engine running @ 2k. Didn't want to rev the engine to much just in case the reg/rec blew another battery....

Whilst ferreting about on 'tinternet for reg/rec I saw this warning on Electrex World where they say Lithium batteries, & NiCad/NiMH, are not suitable for their kit as they require careful control of the charging voltage & current. See https://www.dropbox.com/s/f5ekhntoafnc693/Battery%20Type...

News flash... Hurrah ! using the recharged old battery he only went & fired up as soon as I touched the starter button :happyhappy: So, it didn't start because the new battery was toast and I'm pretty sure it was toast because the regulator allowed it to be over charged. Not going to run it unti...

Well progress of sorts. Tried to start it this morning and no luck with the main relay chattering after half a dozen prods. Mmmm sounds like lack of current from the battery so lets pop him out for another charge whilts I use the old one. And wouldn't you know it the battery was swollen - overcharge...

I have fitted a set of BikeVis LED mini pods see https://www.bikevis.com/product/bikevis-mini-pod-motorcycle-running-lights/ and would heartily recommend them. I've mounted them on the under side of the handlebar guards. They're only 0.75W and I've also fitted their modulator which makes them 'twink...

Did you replace with a brand new, known good battery? When you read 13.3V on the battery what was the situation? Yep, brand new battery from Tayna and the 13.3V reading was definitely when the engine wasn't running and I'm pretty sure it was when still connected but no ignition on. Also I think thi...