Raptor Chapter

So that could mean a bad connection, maybe moist in the (front) cylinder/spark plug? Is there any way to reach that without having to drain the coolant? No need to drain the coolant. Just remove the lower LHS radiator mounting bolt and swing the rad forward and up should give you (just) enough room...

Yo! large tot of scotch with plenty of ice.

If the revs are dropping off alot I'd check plugs and plug caps, I had similar with a cracked front plug cap. I was going to say the exact same thing. I had a front plug cap that played (wet or dry) & in the dark you could even see it arcing & crackling across to the cyliner head. Mucho WD4...

I was just wondering about your original p-air comment because I suspect some owners defeat it in an attempt to civilise aftermarket exhausts that don't match the fuelling regime developed by the bike's manufacturers. Your mention of p-air disablement is the first to show after a request for commen...

Glad you got it sorted, Andy. I replaced the back header screws with S/S hex heads to give easier access than the socket-heads. It sounds contrary, but the hex-heads are both shallower and more reliable. When I do get round to doing the rears I'll be doing the same, S/S studs with brass nuts. My fr...

Well I've finally got round to replacing the rear exhaust union gasket/seal and all went well with the feared front exhaust bolts. Hurrah :D I ended up using PlusGas, online consensus seemed to think it was the best, every night immediately after I parked up and also just before tucking him up for t...

I've now splashed out on some Metzeler RoadTec 01s that I've only had for 500 miles or so but initial impressions are favourable. Tip in is real quick but when you've got the desired lean they just stop there and feel real solid. More lean? then just tip in (again quick) and again that same solid fe...

Oooh Errr :shock: front end slips are never good for the nerves. Personally I avoid manhole covers at all costs sometimes even when vertical. And it's often not just the cast iron surface that causes the issue but the combination of a bump due to the cover being sunken, the cover itself clunking &am...

I'm a mere beginner @ 35k - still being used at 1k per month so it'll only be 3 years or so before I catch up !

How about trying the reverse bleed method ? use a syringe on the caliper bleed nipple and push the fluid 'backwards' up into the master cylinder. I used this method after I took the caliper pistons out for a seal refurbish and found that bleeding them in the usual manner proved pretty much impossibl...

Welcome in... and look forward to seeing your motor.

Too early for me yet but I'll have a little tot of ouzo with my dinner.

Yasou ! !

At first I had some sort of cheapo pads on the OEM brembo discs but these were unsatisfactory with little initial bite or much else to recommend. The pads were changed to EBCs (forget which type) and initially they gave more bite & overall strength but this then faded over time & miles. They...

It's still early, pretty warm and before lunch so I'll just have a bitter shandy.

Superb, three out of three is pretty damn good with these old 'uns. No advisories either?

The snag is the earth connection. It's very short and disappears under the tank. I didn't have time to investigate how its clipped and if there's some spare length which could be freed to get it to reach the terminal. On mine (1000) there was a factory mod that enabled the earth connection to be bo...

Yep..it sure does...action is smooth....Lever is great!
Clutch locks up perfectly even with a handful...no slip to be found anywhere!

Hurrah! and if it's anything like mine this will be the perfect time for the push rod oil seal to start weeping...